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Detail scale aircraft drawings download
Boeing MB-3A. Curtiss Model D. Hansa-Brandenburg W. Junkers DI. Sopwith Camel XIII C. There were no rules. In many cases pilots were self-taught and their airplanes were handmade creations of fabric, wood, and dreams.
Most of the aircraft presented in this book are only memories: scraps of fabric and wire that one time filled the sky with ambition and heroics, The photographs are all authentic; they represent a relatively new idea for the era—aviation photography.
There is, in absolute terms for scale modelers, no substitute for a dimension. A measurement of a given dimension of a given part of an aircraft is one of the most valuable aids to a scale project. With that dimension, a conversion to inches is a simple matter of mathematics.
If it isnt given, its only a guess. The drawings presented herein are the works of master illustrators, such as Wylam, Nye, Larsen, Karlstrom, and others. It was a massive effort, and the drawings reflect countless hours of research and digging through the halls of history. In some cases, measurements were taken from the actual aircraft. In many cases there were no remaining examples of the aircraft. Obtaining the accurate dimensions of these aircraft was difficult, if not impossible.
Where factory drawings and sketches were available, many differences in dimensions were found. To resolve this dilemma, a best-guess approach was used. But it was an educated guess. A lot of technical material has been uncovered in the last 30 years that was not available to these draftsmen. It should be noted that the seale reference given in the title block of each drawing does not reflect the scale size of that drawing.
All of the drawings in this book have been reduced for presentation and are available from us in their full-size to the appropriate scale. These Master Drawings were rendered in varying scales. For the scale modeler, this book is invaluable. We hope you enjoy it. Pay wrone Consrmcrn. The Albatros D. I made its Above: A D. The Albatros was a departure from the typical WW I fabric-and-stick fuselage combat debut on September 17, , and utilized advanced streamlining techniques for the times.
Below: A captured Albatros D. The D. Development continued, however, which ended with the D. The combat career of the Albatros did not end with the closing of WW I, but went into Polish and Czechoslovakian units.
Two survive, both D. Ji Ceavaron Covteo. To guarantee consistent quality, the firm established a testing program virtually unheard of during that period. In-plant testing and inspections were more critical than any contemporary manufacturer had even thought of. From these facilities came the famous S. Fitted with a six-cylinder, water-cooled vertical-type engine that developed hp at 1, rpm, the aircraft was suited to roles of both fighter and bomber. Web icon An illustration of a computer application window Wayback Machine Texts icon An illustration of an open book.
Books Video icon An illustration of two cells of a film strip. Video Audio icon An illustration of an audio speaker. Audio Software icon An illustration of a 3.
Software Images icon An illustration of two photographs. Advanced embedding details, examples, and help! Some of these drawings were made during the war when data were scarce or even restricted, but they’re as accurate as possible under the circumstances.
World War II. There are no reviews yet. Be the first one to write a review. Our latest book release is available in print and digital editions! Click here to learn more and order yours.
MAA Photo Galleries. Since the horizontal ones will be in sections and positioned between the vertical ones, make sure they are all installed along a straight line. Install all the strips along one line, adjust them until they appear straight, and place a drop of super glue with a. The capillary action will pull the glue under the plastic strip.
Avionics boxes. To build radio boxes and electrical boxes I start with An instrument box completed and installed, along with some electrical piping made from Evergreen plastic rod. If I need something thicker or wider, I simply glue more stock to the piece. Draw the shape you want on the sheet stock.
Cut and shape with a razor saw and sandpaper. For instrument dials use spare instruments from Waldron’s instrument sheet and add selector switches, toggle switches, piping, and electrical wiring.
Flight control trim wheels can be added using Waldron’s punch set, but be sure to glue a smaller disk to the underside of the trim wheel to add depth to the part.
If the trim wheel is an actual wheel instead of a selectortype dial, you have several options. These parts can be f o u n d in wellstocked hobby stores. The kit has an excellent trim wheel which you can cast with RTV rubber. You can then make as many wheels as you need, using two-part resin. Throttle and propeller pitch quadrants. There are two ways to make throttle and propeller pitch quadrants to give you a first-class part.
The first is to take a solid piece of plastic stock, draw the quadrant’s surface shape onto it, and cut and sand to the correct shape. Once the quadrant is the correct shape, place it in a vise between two pieces of balsa wood and strike lines across the top for the number of lever channels you need.
Throttle quadrants usually have two or three channels, and propeller pitch quadrants usually have one or two channels. Draw the lines with a pencil, using a small, thin, flexible straightedge. Be sure they are evenly spaced. Scrap brass from a photoetched sheet works well for applications like this.
Next, take a razor saw or a jeweler’s saw and cut through the line into the quadrant. Be sure the cut goes a little down the side on both ends.
The second method uses a sandwich technique that requires you to draw the quadrant’s outline several times. For accuracy, cut and shape one piece of stock to size to use as a master. If your quadrant has two channels you must make five drawings. I use stock of the same thickness for the front, middle, and back panels and slightly thinner gray stock for the two inner panels.
Rough-cut the parts, but cut the top curve where the levers will be located as accurately as possible. Next, secure the back part on a piece of masking tape and position the next panel—which should be gray— slightly lower than the first.
Position the next layer at the same height as the back one, add the second gray part at the same location as the first gray part and then add the final layer at the same height as the back and middle layers. When you remove the part from the masking tape the gray sheets will extend below the base of the part. Sand the part to its correct shape using the outline on the front as a guide. To get the correct curvature on the top and bottom of the quadrant, rotate the part as you move it across the sandpaper for a smooth, curved surface.
Paint the quadrants the correct color and add levers and handles made of round plastic stock or wire by inserting the levers into the channels. The throttle handle is usually much bigger than other lever handles and is usually in the shape of a hand grip.
It can be represented by round stock that is thicker than the lever arm. Other handles are usually balls, which can be made by applying a drop of Krystal Kleer to the tip of the lever arm with a toothpick. Paint the throttle handle brown, the mixture ball red, and the others black. Cables attached to the bases of the levers, which run from Throttle quadrants can be made from a solid piece of stock plastic that is cut and sanded to shape.
Use a razor or jeweler’s saw to cut the lever channels. Drill pilot holes into the forward side of the quadrant and run the wires through the side of the console. If you add this detail, be sure to drill the holes into the console before you glue the console into place. Scratchbuilding seats for propeller-driven aircraft can be tedious because the parts for the seat’s frame are small and the plastic sheeting you use for the seat is thin. The best way to build a seat frame is to draw side and front views of the framing.
Use pins to position and hold the pieces of the frame together when gluing. The first step in making a seat is to build the frame. Draw a front and side view of the frame using reference material and pictures and taking measurements of the inside area of the cockpit with a pair of dividers. When you are satisfied with the drawing, tape it to your workbench, slip a piece of balsa wood sheeting under the drawing, and begin measuring and cutting parts for the frame from either round or square plastic stock.
Some seat frames are made of tubing, while some are rectangular lengths of metal and others are a combination. I recommend building up the sides of the frame first, using the side drawing. Then connect the sides with cross members, using the front view drawing. As you position the parts, hold them in place with pins.
Be sure to locate the pins where parts will not be attached to one another. The technique of using pins to hold parts in place is the same one used to build balsa wood models, only you can’t stick the pins into the parts. Once they are positioned correctly and secured with pins, apply a tiny amount of super glue to each connection point with a small piece of wire.
You only need enough glue to Rough-cut the seat sides, attach with white glue, and sand to the proper shape. The white glue comes off easily when you soak the part in water. Avoid gluing the parts to the paper.
After the glue has dried, remove the pins, lift the newly constructed part from the drawing, and apply glue to the circumference of each connection point. If the part is stuck to the drawing, carefully separate the plastic from the paper with a sharp 11 XActo blade. The final step is to glue the cross members to the side f r a m i n g.
To ensure that the side frames are vertical, pin balsa wood strips at least Vi inch 6. This will give the side framing a positive seating and ensure that they will be at 90 degrees to the cross members. If the side framing is at some other angle, the balsa wood strips are still useful; they will provide a positive seating for the base of each side frame.
Set the side frames into place and use pins to hold them. Form-fit the cross members one at a time and glue, using the same thin wire. Remove the completed frame from the drawing and finish gluing the pieces.
Now you are ready to work on the seat. Since seats can be sanded down to the correct thickness by running them across stationary sandpaper, you can construct them with thicker plastic stock. This makes it easier, especially when you are working in smaller scales. Draw the sides of the seats directly onto the. The easiest way is to glue them together with Elmer’s glue and use micro files and sandpaper to give them their final shape. When you are finished, separate the parts with a 11 X-Acto blade and wash the excess white glue off with soap and water.
Now draw a front view of the seat onto the plastic stock you will use for the backing and base. The simplest seat is one that does not have a rounded bottom where the backing and base meet. For this type of seat, position the balsa strips to act as guides for the seat sides, position the sides on the drawing, and then glue them.
Run a tiny bead of glue along the inner contact area between the side of the seat and the backing. When the glue is dry, remove the balsa blocks and glue a piece of sheet stock to the bottom of the sides. Cut and shape the excess plastic. I usually cut the excess with an X-Acto blade and sand the last Me inch 1. This is also the best way to thin the sides if they are too thick. If the seat has a rounded base, draw a long rectangle onto the sheeting, correctly locate and glue the sides on the upper portion of the rectangle, and use the remaining area of the rectangle as the seat’s bottom.
After the glue has dried, trim excess plastic, leaving a lip of Vs inch 3. Slowly rotate the plastic sheeting around the back and bottom of the seat, gluing the sheeting as you work toward the forward edge of the seat. After you have glued the bottom half in place and the glue is dry, trim the excess and sand the seat to the correct shape and thickness.
I sometimes add an extra layer of plastic to the back and base for strength and sand it down. Finally, check for cracks and excess glue with silver paint.
Be sure to remove this paint before priming and give the surfaces of the seat a final sanding with grit sandpaper to smooth out any scratches. I Glue the sides to the backing and run a bead of super glue along the inner joint to secure the parts. If the seat has a rounded base, simply roll the sheeting around the base of the sides and glue.
Jet aircraft ejection seats are complicated pieces of machinery. Most jet aircraft kits have good seats which can be improved by adding plastic stock such as tubing, small boxes, and strips of wire.
Or you can purchase an aftermarket resin ejection seat with a lot of detail added. If the seat from your kit has molded seat belts, remove them with a small piece of sandpaper wrapped around the end of a piece of balsa wood. The balsa wood should be small enough that you can sand the belt off the side or from top to bottom.
If you use a fine grit, you won’t mar the seat’s cushion detail. Extra detail and seat belts, along with proper painting and The completed seat is ready for final shaping. The corners of the seat still have to be rounded. A thicker piece of sheet stock will be added to the bottom to reinforce the base.
Model Technologies and other cottage industry manufacturers market high-quality photoetched hardware that is easy to use. Some modelers use paper to represent seat belts and shoulder harnesses, but I have found it difficult to work with. Instead, I use 3M masking tape, which does not rip easily, takes The back side of this P Mustang seat has its shoulder hardware attached. The seat belt length has been folded over the seat. The last step will be to add the buckle and length-adjusting hardware.
To work with masking tape, lay it down on your workbench, draw the correct seat belt or shoulder harness width, and cut it out with a 11 X-Acto blade. Cut individual lengths longer than you need at first. Make enough for both seat belts and shoulder harnesses.
Seat belts are slightly wider than shoulder harnesses, so be sure to measure and cut different widths. For good-looking leather belts, I paint the masking tape with a base color of Polly-S earth brown and highlight it by drybrushing with Tester’s wood color. When you add the wood color, you get streaks of a lighter color, which helps represent the discoloration leather undergoes when it gets dirty, wet, and exposed to the sun.
To represent canvas use either a lightened olive drab or a light gray. Highlight these colors with a lighter shade of the base color and drybrush some Polly-S dirt for weathering. Definitely use the dirt color on light gray canvas, because light colors always show even the slightest dirt. Once the paint is dry you are ready to add the hardware. For the seat belts you should have two long lengths.
The easiest way to attach the buckles correctly is to slide them onto the belt and fold a small portion of the belt under itself.
Position the hardware in the crease of the fold, making sure the portion folded under is positioned exactly under the upper section, and place a tiny drop of super glue on the underside of the belt to secure the fold. Shoulder harnesses can be two individual lengths with separate adjustments or one long length—the photoetched parts are set up for both designs.
When building a seat with one continuous length, measure the approximate length you will need. Attach the necessary hardware to the back of the seat with super glue, fold the belt length in two, run it through the loop, lay it over the seat, and cut it to the appropriate length. The shoulder harnesses should be as long as the seat’s back, and the tips of the harnesses should almost touch the seat bottom.
Add extra length, so that it can be folded under itself. For both types of harnesses, add the midlength strap length adjusters before adding the end buckles. Sliding these length adjusters takes a gentle touch; be careful not to bend them. Once you have them in place, add the end buckles the same way you did the seat belts.
For belt grommets, place four drops of silver paint in a box pattern on the top of each belt that needs hardware at its tip. Apply the paint with a sharp-tipped round toothpick. Don’t put lot of paint on the toothpick; you are looking for a subtle effect, not four giant globs of paint. To attach seat belts to the seat bottom, fold them over the edges of the seat and lay the remaining length across it.
After you cut the belt to the correct length, place small drops of super glue on the bottom of the belt and press it onto the seat. The seat belts should be long enough to touch the opposite side of the seat.
Since harnesses lie against the back of the seat, add a small drop of super glue toward the end of each harness and press it against the back of the seat. Most WWII fighter aircraft were fitted with some type of reflective gunsight centered either at the top of the console or above, while modern jets have heads-up displays that combine computer-aided gun and missile aiming along with instrument readings. The reflective glass for the gunsight is positioned so the pilot can look through the reflective glass at the target.
Adding some detail and modifying kit-supplied gunsights adds a pinch of realism to the cockpit. First, define the shape of the gunsight using sandpaper and micro files. Define edges and corners and make sure round shapes are actually round. Be sure to remove any flash, mold seams, and dimples on the surface of the part.
Flash and mold seams can be removed with a 11 X-Acto blade, but dimples must be filled. Once you have better defined the gunsight’s shape, identify the locations of any clear parts like prisms or reflective glass. If there is round clear glass located on the gunsight—such as on a P Mustang—match the closest diameter f r o m Waldron’s punch set, identify the drill bit size, and drill out these locations.
Go only deep enough to allow a piece of clear plastic to sit either on or just below the surface. The shape of the end of the drill bit will form a ledge on the inside wall of the hole, and the clear plastic disk will sit nicely against it. Be careful when drilling, because the plastic will be thin afterward. Punch out the appropriate size disk from clear plastic stock and glue it in the hole using white glue. The easiest way to pick up the clear disk is with the end of a round toothpick moistened with saliva.
If the reflective glass is located on the gunsight, the manufacturer probably molded the correct shape and location, but molded it as part of the gunsight instead of supplying a separate piece of clear plastic.
The trick is to modify the area so you can install a piece of clear plastic. Since reflective glass is located on the top of the gunsight and the sides that hold the glass in position are metal, all you have to do is cut out the center of the plastic, leaving thin walls on both sides.
Use your micro files to Some World War I aircraft used rope for a seat belt. Dig into the plastic with the triangular file, using the flat surface files to define the bottom and sides. Be careful as you thin out the sides— replacing a side with plastic sheeting will be difficult due to its small size. When the area is shaped, use a pair of dividers to measure where clear plastic will sit.
Transfer the measurements to clear stock, cut out the part, and glue with white glue. You can dress up the sides of the gunsight with small plastic disks punched out with Waldron’s punch tool. A switch or two of stretched sprue, or a small instruction decal or scrap plate from a placard set really adds realism. Most gunsights are a light shade of flat black. Mix a small amount of flat white with your flat black. Be sure the gunsight is not the same shade as the console. The disks were punched from sheet styrene with Waldron’s punch tool.
This one is made from two sizes of round stock, a small piece of flat stock, and a piece of wire. Disks and switches should also be a lighter shade or a different color than the gunsight. Don’t add clear parts until you have finished painting. Remember, no one will stand over your model with reference pictures checking to see that every detail is exact. You are trying for a balance between realism, perception of depth, and overall presentation by building an interior that speaks directly to the viewer’s eyes.
Although manufacturers now supply pho- Sketching the console with all necessary information included on each instrument helps you coordinate the instruments and their locations.
With the help of some Waldron products and the following techniques, you can. Build a console. Waldron markets flight instruments and instrument bezels that are easy to install and moderately priced. The first step in building a console with these products is to get some reference material on the aircraft, including cockpit pictures of the console.
Without this material, you will have only the kit’s console for a guide. Study the pictures and become familiar with the location of instruments and switches. Next, make a sketch of the console, including the instruments, which need only be represented by circles. The exact location of each instrument on the sketch is not as important as including all of them and their approximate locations with respect to one another.
Most aircraft consoles are structured so the most important instruments, such as the attitude indicator more commonly known as the artificial horizon , the turn and bank indicator, the speed indicator, and the altitude indicator, are located toward the center. Strike a reference line down the approximate center of the sketch. Since most instruments follow a vertical or horizontal line, several should be along the same line.
They are numbered; the instruction sheet also has a cross index that lists each number and the type of instrument, making them easy to f i n d. Write the Waldron instrument number next to the instrument’s name on the sketch, and write the punch size you will need. Determine what size punch you need for each instrument by matching the punch head with the instruction sheet diagram.
To prevent any mixups between instrument number and punch size, draw boxes or circles around the instrument numbers.
Once you have a complete drawing, decide how you want to make the console. Waldron recommends a slightly bigger console so all the Write the correct punch size for each instrument onto the diagram. This will give you a reference sheet to check before punching an instrument. This means you will have to carefully remove some interior plastic and do a lot of trialand-error fitting. I make all my consoles using a simple sandwich construction technique that incorporates the kit’s console, and I have never had a problem making the instruments fit.
First, check the fit of the kit’s console inside the cockpit. Tape the fuselage halves together and insert the console. In most cases it will not fit snugly, which means you must add thin plastic strips along the sides.
Adding this plastic results in a more realistic finished console with little or no spacing between the edge of the console and the cockpit wall. It also gives you extra room to play with when locating instruments. Once you have glued the extra plastic strips and checked the fit, sand the surface of the kit’s console flat.
It will become the back half of the new console. Next, trace the modified kit’s console onto sheet plastic no more that. This is the best thickness for Waldron’s instruments, which are approximately. Strike a straight line onto the plastic sheeting; this will be your reference line and the base line for the new console face.
Trace around the edge of the console with a. When you have finished drawing the box cut it out, tape it to your workbench, and tape the longest side of a triangle or other straightedge along the base of the console drawing. The straightedge must be directly on top of the bottom edge of the drawing, since the bottom edge serves as the base from which to draw vertical and horizontal lines for locating instruments.
Detail scale aircraft drawings download.AirCraft Blueprints – Download free blueprint for 3D modeling
WebAircraft Drawings Volume 1. Here is a collection of three and four-view drawings, outlines, and renderings of over various aircraft perfect for subject research. Each drawing . WebAirCraft Blueprints – Download free blueprint for 3D replace.meg: detail scale. WebDownload file details: Scale Aircraft Drawings, Volume 1 – World War I Submission date: 26/04/ A backup copy has been saved as: TitleID: | Filesize: KB Credit*: .
Detail scale aircraft drawings download.Scale Aircraft Drawings Volume 1 World War I PDF
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Detail & Scale 018 – Detailing Scale Model Aircraft.Detail scale aircraft drawings download
Now you can order online by clicking the button and you will be redirected to our Amazon and Apple storefronts. Known for their extensive detailed looks at the cockpits, radars, avionics, armament, powerplants, landing gear, and other features of each erawings, these books were highly sought after and extremely downloa with enthusiasts and model builders bdmv player download pc. Of special interest to scale modelers is our Scale Modeling Section that detail scale aircraft drawings download kit and product reviews and Scale Modeling Photography which contains photo galleries of scale продолжить. Check our website regularly for updates.
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